Christmas Eve in Bethlehem

Christmas in Jerusalem is hard to notice. There are no decorations or holidays or indications of anything special (I kept having to remind my lab members that I wasn't coming in that day because it was Christmas; they gave no passing thought to it). BUT Bethlehem, which is an Arab city about 6 miles south of Jerusalem and about 1/3 Christian, celebrates Christmas with enthusiasm.  This Christmas Eve, most of the LDS families I knew were going down to Bethlehem for at least a few hours on Christmas Eve, for the parades or choirs or services.  Aaron and I decided to go in the late afternoon and meet up with a few families at Shepherd's Field for a Lutheran Christmas caroling and service.  We took a bus from Jerusalem, usually filled with only Arabs but today a mix of American/European tourists and the Arab locals. 

View of rolling hills outside bus window on the way to Bethlehem

 From the center of Bethlehem we took a taxi to "the YMCA in Beit Sahur" (according to Tyler, the YMCA was where the Lutheran Shepherd's Field was and the best meeting point).  

Christmas decorations in Bethlehem, from taxi

The taxi dropped us off at this very dark YMCA, where Aaron and I were convinced that it was the wrong one. 

dark, deserted YMCA

We walked all around it and up and down the street, asking for directions.  Everyone told us that this was the only YMCA in Beit Sahur.  Finally we walked down the street a few blocks and found another building that also said YMCA.  We went inside and asked where the Christmas caroling was.  He laughed and said, "follow the star".  He then proceeded to lead us outside and point towards a glowing star strung over a path leading through the trees.  

Of course, follow the star!  We should have known!

We made it just in time for the last two songs and fire roasted lamb and pita bread.  

After, a group of us went with Sahar, a Palestinian member of the Church who lives in Bethlehem, and had kanafe (Arab treat with cheese and honey) and then to her house where we read Luke 2 and sang a few more Christmas songs.  

When all seems to be dark, confusing, and lost, just follow the star!

Trip to the Emergency Room

This was about two months ago, but I was working in the lab late at night by myself and I broke some glass and cut myself. I wrapped it up and kept working but an hour later I still had some sharp pain in my finger. I took a closer look and realized that I likely had a small piece of glass stuck in my finger!  It was superficial but the entry wound was very small so I couldn't dig it out myself.  The next day, I called around and found out that with my insurance, the best place to go to get it removed was the emergency room.  And so I took my first (and only?) trip to an Israeli emergency room.

The wait was short and I was surrounded by mostly ultra-Orthodox Jews in the waiting room.  When they took me back, I was surprised to find a very sparse room, just an examination bed and a table with a few supplies on it.  I was also surprised to see blood on the wall and the table!  That increased my already present anxiety.  The doctor, an Orthodox man with a New York accent, came in and gave me a shot to numb my finger. That was the worst part, from there I was as pain-free and happy as a lark!  He pulled out the piece of glass and said, "I will be right back" and then disappeared and never came back! I waited for about 10 minutes, bleeding all over the examination table until finally someone else came in only to grab something from a drawer. I made him wrap my finger up and I went on my way.  At the least, the visit and antibiotic cream was free!

Complain and ye shall receive

A few weeks ago, I was grumbling that I wasn't getting a Christmas this year.  I've been away from home before on Christmas, but it is a strange feeling to live in a predominantly non-Christian country during the Christmas season. There are no lights, no Christmas music, no signs  or mention of the holiday season around the city; a strange contrast to the fact that I am living just a handful of miles away from where the Savior was born.  And even though I know I can focus on the true meaning of Christmas, I still missed the sentiment and the traditions of the season back home.
After a few days of self-pity, a few things started to happen.  An American family offered to let me borrow some Christmas lights, a friend gave me a Christmas music mix to play on my computer, I re-memorized Luke 2.  And then today I was walking home from the lab when I came across the most random object on the side of the road. I am still not quite sure what it is, if it is a baby pine tree cut down or a branch of a very large pine tree.  I paused, a little surprised and not sure what to do, looking around to see if it came from a tree close by.  Then I made up my mind - this was going to be my Christmas tree.  I alternately carried and dragged the tree home and set it up with my Christmas lights. It is perfect for my room, my little Christmas miracle. And I learned a very important lesson: ask and ye shall receive. Or every once in a while complain, and God will throw you a bone.

Mom's visit

Dad came to visit!

My dad came to visit! We did so much in 6 days, both he and I were exhausted at the end of it. We toured Jerusalem, drove up north to the Galilee and spent two days there, spent a morning at Masada by the Dead Sea, and half a day in Bethlehem.  

Highlights of the trip:

Eating Shabbat dinner with the Kovalskis in a sukkah

Hiking up the mountain to Masada and eating McDonalds soft serve ice cream afterwards

Swimming at night in the Sea of Galilee in a "no swim" zone

Capernaum and seeing ruins of the actual synagogue where Jesus often taught and performed miracles

Mount of Beatitudes, such a beautiful place overlooking the Sea of Galilee where Jesus taught

View of Jezreel Valley

Sea of Galilee from Tiberias

Synagogue in Capernaum

Garden Tomb

art of Banksy in Bethlehem

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

Louai, our Bethlehem taxi driver

view of the city from the Jerusalem Center

View from the top of the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer in the Old City

David's Citadel

Cats everywhere!

Our tour guide Paul and the group on the Mount of Olives at the Jewish cemetery 

Garden of Gethsemane

Example of the many candle holders in churches

Orson Hyde memorial park where Jerusalem was dedicated for missionary work

in the Old City

Inside the church of the Holy Sepulcher, waiting in line to enter the alleged place of the tomb of Jesus

Ceasarea, Roman ruins by the ocean

At Megiddo, a Canaanite altar

going down in the water tunnel in Megiddo

Example of Canaanite worship and sacrifice in their "high places"

Church at Mt Tabor, the Mount of Transfiguration

View from Mt Tabor

Capernaum

Sea of Galilee

Mount of Beatitudes church

Jordan River

little fish of the Jordan River

Old City walls

walls from the time of Christ (Herod built them)

stones from the wall thrown down by the Romans in the destruction of Jerusalem in 70AD

excavated steps in the time of Christ leading up to the temple 

snake path we hiked going up the side of the mountain to Masada

View of the Dead Sea from Masada

Aaron and dad

Cistern (water storage big hole in the ground) at Masada

Masada

Roman seige ramp, Masada

Olive Wood carvings

Inside Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem