Christmas in Jerusalem is hard to notice. There are no decorations or holidays or indications of anything special (I kept having to remind my lab members that I wasn't coming in that day because it was Christmas; they gave no passing thought to it). BUT Bethlehem, which is an Arab city about 6 miles south of Jerusalem and about 1/3 Christian, celebrates Christmas with enthusiasm. This Christmas Eve, most of the LDS families I knew were going down to Bethlehem for at least a few hours on Christmas Eve, for the parades or choirs or services. Aaron and I decided to go in the late afternoon and meet up with a few families at Shepherd's Field for a Lutheran Christmas caroling and service. We took a bus from Jerusalem, usually filled with only Arabs but today a mix of American/European tourists and the Arab locals.
View of rolling hills outside bus window on the way to Bethlehem
From the center of Bethlehem we took a taxi to "the YMCA in Beit Sahur" (according to Tyler, the YMCA was where the Lutheran Shepherd's Field was and the best meeting point).
Christmas decorations in Bethlehem, from taxi
The taxi dropped us off at this very dark YMCA, where Aaron and I were convinced that it was the wrong one.
dark, deserted YMCA
We walked all around it and up and down the street, asking for directions. Everyone told us that this was the only YMCA in Beit Sahur. Finally we walked down the street a few blocks and found another building that also said YMCA. We went inside and asked where the Christmas caroling was. He laughed and said, "follow the star". He then proceeded to lead us outside and point towards a glowing star strung over a path leading through the trees.
Of course, follow the star! We should have known!
We made it just in time for the last two songs and fire roasted lamb and pita bread.
After, a group of us went with Sahar, a Palestinian member of the Church who lives in Bethlehem, and had kanafe (Arab treat with cheese and honey) and then to her house where we read Luke 2 and sang a few more Christmas songs.
When all seems to be dark, confusing, and lost, just follow the star!
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